Hungarian Restaurant Opens in Wynola
By Bobbi Zane

Maria Bertalan is shown inside her new Hungarian restaurant, Culyas Csarda. Photo by Bobbi Zane

Budapest, in the form of a new Hungarian restaurant, has come to Julian.

The restaurant, quite possibly the only one to serve Hungarian fare in San Diego County, is named Gulyas Csarda. It opened to a large crowd on June 19 in Wynola.

The eatery, occupying the former Chicken Shack at the corner of Wynola Road and Highway 78, is owned by Budapest native Maria Bertalan.

Bertalan renovated the building from top to bottom to create a European country ambiance. Red chenille curtains adorn the large windows, new contemporary furnishings sport dark red upholstery and tables are set with crimson place mats. A fireplace at one end of the dining room will provide warmth and cheer on cold winter nights. There's also a small, oak-shaded deck for outside dining.

The menu, patterned somewhat after a restaurant Bertalan owned in Budapest, features popular Hungarian items including Weiner schnitzel with red cabbage, chicken paprika with sour cream and dumplings, and beef and rice stuffed in a yellow bell pepper. There's a separate menu featuring hearty Hungarian soups: bean and ham hock; mushroom and dumplings; and vegetable and beef.

Hungarian specialties on the breakfast list include Weiner schnitzel with eggs and fried potatoes, and sausage with eggs and potatoes. Prices are about $9.50 for lunch or dinner entrees, less for breakfast.

Prior to coming to the United States about two decades ago, Bertalan operated a restaurant near Hungary's capital city. After living in Michigan for a few years, she moved to the San Diego area, where she began to drive a Yellow Cab, ultimately owning the vehicle and running a successful business. It was a profitable business for her, one that made it possible to purchase the restaurant.

Her travels took Bertalan to every corner of the county, including Julian, which she grew to love. By 2002 she found property in Kentwood, which she purchased. Someday, she says, she will build a home on the property. In the meantime, she's got a restaurant to run.

Gulyas Csarda, located at 4354 Wynola Road, is open from 8 a.m. to 9 p.m. daily. The restaurant's phone number is 760-765-3200. Bertalan expects to serve wine and beer soon.